Picturing Fashion
Highlights from the Museum's Costume Collection,
1860-1920
March - September, 2008
Fashion
is a definite part of history. It can speak volumes about the lives of
those who designed, wore, and owned its components. Clothing also
presents a unique insight into the concepts of beauty, style, and
self-expression. It often illustrates technological changes as well as
changes in social attitude.
Photographs show how a woman
desired to present herself to the outside world. With a tilt of her
head, a casual smile, or the set of her shoulders, along with the
photographer, the sitter is making a statement about beauty and style.
The
clothing and photographs in this exhibition provide a glimpse into how
women interpreted beauty and style from 1860 to 1920. They were chosen
for a variety of reason: some are good examples of costumes of the era;
some were chosen because of their display of self-expression; and some
found their way into the hearts and imaginations of the creators of
this exhibit.
Picturing Fashion will be on display in the Mezzanine of the Main Museum through September 2008.
Highlights from the exhibit:
Dora Ritzler Fast, 1889
During
the 1880s, most dress fashions had tight-fitting bodices and sleeves, a
long waist, a high collar, and a large shelf-like bustle worn protuding
from the derriere. Skirts were asymmetrically draped and had a
street-length hem. The look, combined with the high-crowned hat,
created a sense of height and slimness with its vertical emphasis. Dora
Ritzler Fast wore this greeen and tan two-piece dress at her 1889
wedding. Dora diverged slightly from the traditional late 1880s style
when she borrowed for the newly-fashionable Directoire style. This
style, popularized by actress Sarah Bernhardt, featured an asymmetrical
bodice with lace fichu effect and an undraped skirt. Dora's skirt
features long tails, which create the appearance of an underskirt.

Eliza Ashe, circa 1896
At
the age of fourteen, the daughter of Elliott Ashe (for whom Ashe Road
is named) seems overwhelmed by the fashionably large leg-of-mutton
sleeves. The large leg-of-mutton sleeves, which came to define the
1890s, were popular for only a short amount of time. The sleeves
reached their maximum size in 1895-96, and vanished abruptly by 1897.
Irma Weill, circa 1905
Illustrator
Charles Dana Gibson's pen and ink drawings of women became the standard
for feminine beauty during the early 1900s. The so-called "Gibson Girl"
was tall and slender with an ample bosom, hips, and derriere. Her 'S'
curve silhouette was achieved by corseting that thrust out her bosom
and derriere. With her wasp waist, generous 'mono' bust with no
cleavage, and high-piled hair, Irma Weill is the epitome of the Gibson
Girl's 'S'-bend silhouette.